Removing wallpaper can go smoothly, or it can expose torn drywall, loose plaster, and flaking paint. The difference usually comes down to preparation and method. Wallpaper bonds tightly to walls through adhesives that react to moisture, heat, and pressure.
When removal happens too fast or with the wrong tools, the wall surface often suffers. Knowing how wallpaper behaves during removal helps limit damage and reduces the need for patching or sanding afterward.
Why Wallpaper Removal Can Damage Your Walls
Wallpaper damage rarely happens without warning. It is usually the result of poor wallpaper installation, the condition of the wall beneath it, and how removal is handled. When any of these factors are ignored, even gentle peeling can pull away paint, paper facing, or plaster.

Weak Paint or Poor Surface Prep
Wallpaper adheres best to properly primed walls. If the wall was painted without primer, or if the paint was already peeling, the adhesive may bond more strongly to the paint than to the wall itself. During removal, the paint layer lifts off in sheets, exposing bare drywall or chalky plaster.
Aggressive Adhesives
Some wallpapers, especially low-cost options, rely on stronger adhesives to compensate for thinner materials. These adhesives grip tightly and release unevenly. When pulled dry, they often tear drywall paper or leave behind hardened residue that requires scraping. High-quality wallpapers use refined adhesive systems designed to release more cleanly over time.
Excessive Moisture
Water softens adhesive, but too much of it penetrates the wall surface. Drywall absorbs moisture quickly, which weakens its paper layer. Plaster can crack or crumble if saturated. Flooding the wall instead of lightly soaking the wallpaper increases the risk of surface failure.
Over-Scoring the Wallpaper
Scoring tools are helpful, but only when used lightly. Pressing too hard cuts through wallpaper and into drywall paper. Once that happens, moisture seeps directly into the wall, making tearing almost unavoidable during scraping.
Rushing the Removal Process
Impatience causes more damage than any single tool. Pulling wallpaper before the adhesive has softened forces resistance. The wall loses every time. Slow separation allows the adhesive to release instead of ripping material away.
Wallpaper Removal Methods: Choose the Right Technique
No single method works best for every wall. The safest choice depends on three things: the wallpaper type (vinyl, paper, peel-and-stick), the adhesive (light tack vs heavy paste), and the wall underneath (painted drywall vs older plaster). Start with the least aggressive option, then move up only if the paper resists.

Before picking a method, do a quick test:
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Lift a corner with a putty knife.
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Pull slowly at a low angle.
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Notice what fails first: the paper tears, the glue stays put, the paint lifts, or the wall starts to fuzz.
That tells you what to try next.
Dry Stripping
Best for: peelable wallpaper, newer installs, stable paint, and some vinyl wallpapers where the top layer lifts cleanly.
Risk level: low, as long as you pull gently and don’t pry.
Dry stripping means removing wallpaper without water, steam, or chemicals. It can be the cleanest option when the wallpaper is hung on a primed wall or installed with a strippable adhesive.
How to do it without tearing drywall:
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Start at a seam, not the middle of a panel. Use a wide putty knife to lift just enough to grip.
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Pull down at a shallow angle. A low angle reduces the chance of ripping the drywall paper.
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Work in small sections. If the resistance suddenly spikes, stop. Switch methods instead of yanking.
Good to know: Many vinyl wallpapers peel in layers. The vinyl face may come off first, leaving a paper backing behind. That’s normal. Once the face is off, soaking usually works better on the backing and glue.
Scoring + Soaking Method
Best for: older wallpaper, paper-backed layers, and walls where dry stripping shreds the paper.
Risk level: medium if you score too deep or soak too heavily.
Scoring creates tiny openings so liquid can reach the adhesive. Done lightly, it helps. Done aggressively, it cuts into drywall paper and invites damage.
How to score safely:
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Use light pressure. You want pinholes, not trenches.
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Skip areas near corners and trim where surfaces tear more easily.
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If you’re working on drywall, err on the gentle side. Drywall paper is thin and unforgiving.
Soaking tips that reduce damage:
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Apply the solution evenly and let it sit. Re-wet rather than soaking the wall.
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Wait 5–10 minutes, then test scrape. Still stuck? Re-wet and wait again.
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Keep a towel at the baseboard and wipe drips quickly so drywall seams don’t swell.
Most failures here come from rushing. If you’re scraping hard enough to gouge, the adhesive needs more time.
Using Water or DIY Solution
Best for: light adhesives, paper wallpaper, and backing layers left behind after vinyl face removal.
Risk level: low to medium, depending on how wet the wall gets.
Warm water can work on its own, but a mild additive often helps it spread and penetrate.
Common DIY mixes people use:
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Vinegar + hot water: a simple mix many homeowners try first.
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Fabric softener + hot water: another frequently used option for loosening paste.
The exact ratio matters less than the application. Saturating the wall is where trouble starts.
Make it work without soaking the drywall:
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Use a pump sprayer or sponge for controlled coverage.
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Work in 3–4 foot sections so the solution stays active.
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If the wallpaper dries before it releases, re-wet lightly and wait again.
Scraping technique that’s kinder to walls:
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Use a wide blade and keep it nearly flat.
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Push with steady pressure. If you have to dig, pause and re-wet.
Using a Wallpaper Steamer
Best for: stubborn paste, multiple layers, and many plaster walls.
Risk level: medium on drywall if overheated or held in one spot.
Steam softens glue quickly. The downside is heat plus moisture, which can loosen paint and soften drywall paper if you linger.
How to steam with less risk:
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Hold the plate on the wall briefly, then move. Staying in one spot is what causes bubbling and soft patches.
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Scrape while the adhesive is warm. Timing matters.
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If the paint underneath starts lifting, stop steaming that area and switch to a remover that uses less heat.
Extra caution near outlets and switches is smart. Keep moisture controlled, and don’t treat the wall like it can handle a sauna.
Chemical Wallpaper Strippers
Best for: heavy-duty adhesives, painted-over wallpaper, or glue that barely reacts to water.
Risk level: depends on the product; ventilation and protective gear matter.
Commercial removers can work fast, but they still need dwell time. Most are meant to be diluted, and labels are not optional reading.
Basic safety habits:
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Open windows and run a fan for airflow.
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Wear gloves that are meant for chemical handling, not thin dish gloves.
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Avoid misting chemicals into the air if you can. A sponge or roller is often cleaner.
How to use them without wrecking the wall:
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Apply evenly, let it sit, then scrape gently.
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Rinse afterward so the leftover remover doesn’t mess with primer or paint later.
If the wallpaper starts coming off but the wall surface looks soft or fuzzy, stop and reassess. At that point, less force beats faster progress.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Remove Wallpaper Properly
Removing wallpaper without harming the wall is less about strength and more about sequence. Each step builds on the last. Skipping one often leads to torn drywall, loose plaster, or hours of patchwork later.

Prepare the Room
Clear as much space as possible. Move furniture out or push it to the center and cover it. Lay drop cloths along the base of the walls. Remove outlet covers and switch plates, and shut off power to the room if moisture or steam will be used. This step limits cleanup and prevents water from creeping into places it shouldn’t.
Identify the Type of Wallpaper
Before doing anything else, test a corner. Gently lift it with a putty knife and pull slowly.
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If a full sheet comes off, it’s likely peelable.
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If only a thin layer lifts, you’re dealing with a two-layer system.
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If nothing moves, the adhesive is strong and needs softening.
Knowing this early saves time and prevents unnecessary force.
Start at a Corner or Seam
Always begin where wallpaper edges already exist. Seams are weaker than flat sections and reduce the chance of tearing the wall surface. Slide a wide putty knife under the edge just enough to grip the paper with your fingers.
Score the Wallpaper (If Needed)
Only score if the wallpaper refuses to release. Use light pressure. The goal is to break the surface layer, not carve into the wall. Emphasize even spacing over depth. If drywall paper shows through, stop scoring immediately.
Apply Wallpaper Removal Solution
Apply your chosen solution with a sponge or sprayer. Keep coverage even and controlled. Let it sit for several minutes. This waiting period matters more than the solution itself. If the paper still resists, reapply lightly and wait again instead of scraping harder.
Use a Wallpaper Steamer (Optional)
Steam comes into play when soaking alone fails. Hold the steamer pad against the wall briefly, then move on. Heat works fast, but lingering in one spot softens paint and drywall. Work in small areas and scrape while the adhesive is warm.
Peel the Wallpaper Slowly
Pull downward at a shallow angle. Slow movement allows the adhesive to release instead of ripping the wall surface. If resistance increases suddenly, pause and re-wet or re-steam that area. Progress should feel steady, not forced.
Scrape Off Residual Adhesive
After the wallpaper is gone, glue often remains. Use a wide scraper with minimal pressure. If the adhesive smears instead of lifting, it needs more moisture. Avoid sharp blades here. They dig into drywall paper easily.
Clean and Dry the Wall
Wipe the wall with clean water to remove residue. Leftover glue can interfere with primer or new wallpaper later. Allow the wall to dry fully. Damp drywall hides soft spots that only show up once dry.
Repair Minor Wall Damage
Inspect the surface under good light. Small nicks or raised paper can be fixed with lightweight spackle and light sanding. If drywall paper is exposed, seal it with primer before painting or re-papering. Skipping this step almost always leads to visible flaws later.
Common Mistakes That Cause Wall Damage
Many wallpaper problems don’t come from bad materials. They come from small missteps that add up. Avoiding these mistakes saves hours of repair work later.

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Pulling wallpaper dry when it resists
If the paper doesn’t release easily, forcing it almost always tears drywall paper or lifts paint. Resistance means the adhesive hasn’t softened yet. -
Over-scoring the surface
Pressing too hard with a scoring tool cuts into drywall. Once that paper layer is damaged, moisture goes straight into the wall and causes tearing during removal. -
Using too much water at once
Flooding the wall weakens drywall and softens joint compound. Light, repeated applications work better and give you more control. -
Holding a steamer in one spot
Heat plus moisture in a single area leads to bubbling paint, soft drywall, and uneven surfaces. Steam should always stay in motion. -
Scraping at a steep angle
Sharp angles dig into the wall. A flatter blade glides under adhesive instead of gouging the surface. -
Skipping the final wall cleaning
Leaving glue residue behind interferes with primer, paint, or new wallpaper. The wall may look clean, but problems show up later. -
Ignoring the weak paint underneath
If the paint was already failing, wallpaper removal exposes it. Sealing damaged areas before refinishing prevents future peeling.
Conclusion
Removing wallpaper without damaging your walls is possible when patience leads the process. Starting with the gentlest method, letting moisture or heat do the work, and slowing down when resistance appears, keeps drywall and plaster intact. Damage usually happens when tools replace time.
If you’re planning to re-paper after removal, choosing better materials from the start helps the next project end cleaner than the last. For homeowners in Canada, GroveTree Décor is a source for premium wallpapers known for advanced adhesive systems, high-resolution printing, cleanable protective finishes, and exclusive design collections, including South Asian and Arabesque styles.
When removal is done with care and the right materials are chosen going forward, walls stay intact and ready for whatever comes next.
FAQ
Yes, if the wallpaper is peelable and the paint was properly primed. Scoring is only needed when adhesive blocks moisture penetration.
Paint adhesion matters. Strong wallpaper adhesives can bond more tightly to weak paint than to the wall itself.
Used briefly and evenly, steam works well on plaster. Holding heat too long can loosen finish layers or create hairline cracks.
Stop immediately. Let it dry, then seal exposed paper with primer before sanding or applying new finishes.
Yes. Residual glue interferes with adhesion and pattern alignment, leading to lifting or uneven seams over time.